Donga Fight

Continued from main Omo Valley expedition page

I was noticed. A bullet fizzed past my head. It was not meant to harm, but only as an intimidation from a warrior who wanted to signal that I was to stay back. I saw a warband coming towards me holding their victor up on their shoulders and I stood aside as the hooting and chanting passed me by as they took their champion into the forest, only to parade him back into the clearing to shrieks and horns. It felt as if I was witnessing something unchanged for centuries, an African Coliseum.

Samson led me to the edge of the forest where a nervous youth was downing home made sorgum beer and putting protective bandages on his head. “This is my nephew,” he said. “He will fight soon.” I could see a mixture of fear and pride in his face as he listened to his friend who was feeding him tips to a successful battle, for honour, for a his future bride and for his reputation as a warrior. I asked Samson even if I wanted to, would I be allowed to fight. “No,” came the reply. “This is for us.” I understood that this test of manhood and aggression is what set the Surma apart from other tribes in the area. As a consequence they were greatly feared by their neighbours and as such were the most powerful tribe on the west side of the Omo River.

The day grew longer and the shadows shortened and lengthened again. Much blood had been spilt and soon old family feuds spilled over into gunfire. This is not part of the game, the rules. There is no honour in it. But with the dangerous mixture of unresolved clan differences, fighting and alcohol, many men had picked up their second spear, the Kalashnikov.

It was time to leave.

The clearing now sounded like a hornets’ nest of zinging bullets and the crack of rifle fire and Samson and I ducked towards the way we had come. I was glad I had seen this amazing cauldron of African tribal colour. Over the coming days I would meet warriors who had fought in the donga fight, their wounds a mark of their honour and bravery. For me it was a glimpse into the past, for them a glimpse into their future as men.

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